Sg Setiu terrapin centre needs more public help

KUALA TERENGGANU: As it is among the last strongholds for the conservation of river and painted terrapins, Sungai Setiu needs a lot more awareness to beef up its "fort".
Since the river terrapin programme began in 2004, where eggs collected by the community were sold to Universiti Malaysia Terengganu Turtle Research and Rehabilitation group for research and to save it from ending up on menus, there is yet a "want" from the people there to save the reptile.

Group leader Prof Chan Eng Heng said despite a certain number of terrapin eggs being sold to them, she believed the community could do more.

This is especially since Sungai Setiu has been described as "ground zero" for conservation efforts by the Turtle Survival Alliance last month because of the good prospects it held for the recovery of the terrapin population.

Since 2004 till last year, more than 1,300 eggs were purchased by UMT compared with the over 3,000 deposited. This year, 438 eggs were deposited, while only 255 or 58 per cent were purchased.
"We want 100 per cent. I am not sure why the response to our programme has not been very encouraging... it could be because the incentive offered is not appealing to the fishermen.

"I hope one day they will stop consuming or selling eggs because they want to save the terrapins and not just for monetary reasons.

"I do not want to come to a point where we need to pair terrapins, just like scientists are doing with the Yangtze giant soft shell turtle in China to help recover its population as it is down to its last pair," she told the New Straits Times.

Chan said if the situation did not improve, she might have to resort to the next "hard step" of getting the nesting site gazetted as a sanctuary, which could anger the egg-collecting villagers.

 

My other turtles.... Besides the australasian snake-necked turtles I also keep few other species: If you click on the picture or the name below you will get more information about these species.
Carettochelys insculpta		Elusor macrurus
Acantochelys spixii		Hydromedusa tectifera
Acanthochelys radiolata		Hydromedusa maximiliani
Acanthochelys macrocephala		Acanthochelys pallidipectoris

HOME BREEDING TURTLE IN GERMANY

About me:
Name:           Oliver Römpp Age:               42                        Married, 2 boys                        Living in the southern part of Germany Hobbies:       Turtles, Tree Ferns, Bamboo, Travel
It all started with a small red eared slider that I bought in a local pet store at the age of 15. Falling in love with this little creature, I started to obtain more species and with 18, I had already a small collection with various kind of turtles: snappers, softshells, roof turtles, big headed turtles, Podocnemis species and some Hermann's tortoises. My parents encouraged and assisted me during that time and a large space in the basement was set aside to keep the animals. A small concrete pond was built in the back yard that allowed keeping some species outdoors during the summer.
I obtained my first snake necked turtles when I was about 18. Two small Chelodina novaeguineae hatchlings arrived with a small parcel from a breeder in northern Germany. Since that time these little guys have fascinated me, and my focus was turned towards snake necked turtles. Besides keeping different kinds of snake necked turtles today, my other favourite turtle is the Pig Nosed turtle (Carettochelys insculpta).
	If not in the basement, then in the garden maintaining my bamboo and treefern collection is where I am likely to be found when my wife comes looking for me. However I do try to spend as much time as possible with my wife and my 2 little boys, born in December 2002 and July 2005. At this point, my older boy seems to share the enthusiasm for turtles. As soon as he notices that I have disappeared into the basement, he follows me and wnats to help or at least watch the turtles. I hope that he will still accept my hobby when he grows up and with a little luck he will also turn into a 'turtle guy'.
My little boy has made fast progress and he is now able to walk around beween the different setups. This is getting a problem since he loves to play with the running water hose or sometimes he tries to throw all kind of stuff into the tanks. It is now more difficult and more challenging to take care for the turtles while keeping an eye on him.

BREEDING SNAKE-NECKED TURTLES

Breeding in Captivity   Sooner or later and with some experience in keeping snake-necked turtles, you will be able to breed this species. Nameless to say what it will be when the first baby turtle hatches after 3-4 month of incubating the eggs.

Different juvenile snake-necked turtles that have hatched in winter 2003. From left to right: M. parkeri, C. longicollis, M.expansa, C. mccordi, M. rugosa

For breeding you will need a male and female and sometimes it is not so easy to differentiate the sex of the turtles. In general males can be differentiated by the larger size of the tail compared to those of females. Other distinctive features as they are known from other species (coloration or shape of the plastron) are not existing.  Sexual maturity can be reached within 3-6 years in captivity and may take considerabily longer in nature. If you are not sure what sex your animals are, the following link may help you in determing them: Male or female ? I check my females regularly for eggs and always offer them a suitable nesting place. 'Suitable' means spacious, with the right substrate, temperature and humidity. In my experience the animals of group A will lay their eggs within a few weeks after the eggs are palpated. A soil/sand mixture with normal humidity is suitable for those animals. Macrochelodinas can be more tricky, and the eggs are sometimes carried for month before they are laid. Besides some of these animals seem to prefer more humid or even wet places. It may also happen that the animals will lay into the water for no apparent reason, even if suitable nesting places are available. With M. rugosa underwater nesting is reported. That means nesting takes place below the water surface, just before the dry season. The eggs remain in the muddy water until the nest slowly becomes dry during the hot season. At this time the eggs start to develop. Some of my Macrochelodina females lay normal clutches into the nesting substrate, but also may lay single eggs in between regular clutches right into the water. It also happens that these females deposit their clutches into the nesting medium, followed by additional eggs dropped into the water just a few days later.  All of my M. parkeri females dropped their first clutch into the water, sometimes distributed over weeks. Palpating the eggs is not always possible. I have had several cases where I was not able to palpate any eggs. even knowing that the turtle must be carrying some.  Gravid turtles sometimes get shy and might stop eating a few days before laying their eggs. Always incubate the eggs, even they where found in the water. It is known from studies in Australia, that some eggs from Macrochelodina species will survive under water for several month without the fertility rate beeing impaired. These is known for example from M. rugosa and M. expansa.

Carefull palpating for eggs on a C. mccordi

X-Ray picture of gravid M. parkeri

Breeding and Incubation techniques The nesting place will need to have enough moisture at chamber depth, to allow the turtles to construct a hole in which the eggs will be laid. Keep in mind: If the nesting chamber can not be dug with the hands (because it keeps collapsing) then the turtle cant nest properly, either. Eggs are often deposited during the evening or at night. Sometimes it is difficult to find the nesting places. The nesting chamber is closed again after the eggs are deposited and the female returnes to the water. If the nesting substrate is to hard, it may be softened with water that is discharged from the cloaca. This behaviour has been observed with C. longicollis. After a clutch is found, the eggs are marked on top before they are transferred into the incubator. Incubation temperature fluctuates between 29-31ºC using coarse Vermiculite as substrate. The eggs are covered with the substrate and only the top of the egg is slightly visible. Very good hatching success has been obtained for group A eggs with a Janeschitz Model 400 REP incubator. This incubator is a square styrofoam box with water reservoir on the bottom and electronic controlled heater element on top. The substrate humidity is regularly checked and water is sprayed over the substrate if it feels to dry. Also the water reservoir on the bottom of the incubator needs to be refilled from time to time. In general the eggs are relatively insensitive to the substrate humidity. Clutches have been incubated in both dry and wet conditions. However if the substrate is to wet at the end of incubation, the eggs may get soggy and dehisce. Macrochelodina eggs are incubated in a 'Budde' type of incubator as shown below. This kind of incubator has a higher hatching success for the eggs of larger snake-necked turtles. The eggs are checked from time to time, especially when the expected hatching date gets closer. Some eggs do not start to develop right away and need some additional time or thermal trigger until the typical signs for development are more apparent. Sometimes hatchlings that have emerged from the egg will bury themselves again in the substrate, if not transferred immediately into an aquarium. Some of the hatchlings have still large remains of the yolk sack after they emerging from the egg. If this is the case, they will stay inside the incubator but are transferred into a small plastic container with a mixture of vermiculite and water. There the animals can float and suspend themselves until the yolk has been absorbed further. Typically the yolk sack shrinks to an acceptable size within 1-2 days. Large yolk sacks sometimes look frightening, but in general do not harm the hatchlings, even when they get transferred directly into the aquarium were other turtles and sharp objects may cause injuries. So far I have lost only one animal by being too rash with regard to transfer of a neonate.

Eggs are marked on top and ready to be transferred into the incubator

Coarse Vermiculite is prefered for incubating the eggs

Industrial egg incubator for reptile eggs These kind of incubators will have very good results in incubating group A eggs as C. longicollis and C. mccordi. The picture shows a Janeschitz Rep Mod 400R incubator.

Selfmade incubator after 'Budde' Higher humidity is achieved with this kind of incubator, therefore it is more suitable for Macrochelodina eggs (M. parkeri, M. rugosa and M. expansa)

Hatchling grow up techniques Newborn hatchlings are excellent swimmers from the beginning, even in deep water. However they should be observed carefully over the first minutes until they come to the water surface for their first breath. Some hatchlings panic and dont find the right way up. All setups for hatchlings lack gravel or sand on the bottom, in order to keep them easy to clean. Each aquarium has a small filter and heater inside, and the water temperature is adjusted to 28º-30º Celsius. A higher temperature is not necessary for the hatchlings since it may cause problems due to the faster propagation of bacteria etc. Artificial water plants are offered as resting places and are frequently used during the first weeks. Hatchlings are fed twice a day for the first 2-3 weeks, then feeding is reduced to once a day. Some hatchlings start eating within a vew days, others take longer, depending on the size of the remaining yolk sack and the food offered. New hatchlings especially can be very picky on taking the first food. Different kind of food need to be available and tried out. Some of them will need life food as brine shrimp, tubifex, daphania or mosquito larvae, some will take frozen food right away. Red and white mosquito larvae seem to be the favorite food in general. Some animals only like Tubifex, some other take only brine shrimp. If there are not enough alternatives at the beginning to select from, the hatchlings may die of starvation. Food must be small enough or the turtles won't swallow it. The hatchlings can often be observed as they chew on the mosquito larvae until these finally are in the right position to be swallowed. If only frozen food is available, someone can try to make the food look alive. This can be done either by moving mosquito larvae with a small feeding tweezers or to simulate the movement of the larvae on the bottom of the aquarium by inducing a slow water current. Beef heart, mussels and live guppies are added to the food list when the turtles have become established after 2-3 weeks. Turtle pudding and dry food will also be offered when the turtles continue to grow. Sometimes the turtles easily accept all kind of different food, but sometimes it takes long time before the animals will take the more convenient food items. The aquarium needs to be cleaned after feeding and leftovers are removed from the bottom with a siphon. Also water is changed completely every second day and all parts of the aquarium are cleaned with warm water. This is very important since both, life and frozen food, can easily build up dangerous levels of water pollution, even the water looks clear. Infections, and as a consequence cloudy and swollen eyes have been observed under those conditions. Once small hatchlings are affected, it will be difficult to rehabilitate them.

Some of 2002' hatchlings: M. parkeri, C. longicollis, C. mccordi, M. rugosa

BATAGUR AND CALLAGUR AT SATUN - THAILAND

Freshwater Turtles Farm

Freshwater turtles are found in the tropical and sub-tropical latitudes, live their lives on land, and are adapted to environments ranging from harsh, desserts environments to lush tropical forests. Some turtles have strong shells which enough to hold up against the snap of a jungle cougar’s bite. Turtles do not seem to have a personality like a pet. They have shown him to be much smarter animals than many would believe. The power of their memory when he removed their outdoor shelter and several months later returned the turtles to their enclosed yard. They know the hand that feeds them too. The Turtle Farm and Theme Park included the following projects:
Freshwater Turtles Breeding Farm; Three lined box Turtle (Official name is CUORA TRIFASCIATA) breeding and related experimental projects; Turtles Theme Park and Education Center.

Freshwater Turtles Breeding Farm
The farm will carry out breeding projects for various types of freshwater turtles. Most of the turtle types are of high value in producing medicine and health products. The growing period is different for each and every type of turtles. Generally, it will be one year to five years based on their own value. The breeding is starting from the importation of baby turtle to the full growth at the farm.

Three lined box Turtle Breeding and related experimental projects

There are a variety of Asian Box Turtles which are sometimes sold as pets. Most turtles that are called "Asian box turtles" are of the genus Cuora. (Two are listed under the genus Cistoclemmys by some writers.) It's important to know which one you have as they require different care. Asian box turtle (One additional species of box turtle, from a different genus-- Pyxidea mouhotii-- can also be called an "Asian box turtle." Wild caught and captive bred Pyxidea are occasionally sold in the pet trade, so general care will be covered in this overview.) Taxonomy: class Reptilia, order chelonia, family emydidae, subfamily batagurinae, genera: Cuora, Cistoclemmys, Pyxidea Cuora trifasciata --Three-striped box turtle: Brown shell with three black or dark brown stripes. Adults have a blunt vertebral keel and small lateral keels. There is a black-bordered olive-colored stripe which runs from the nose down the side of the head and neck, and a yellow stripe runs down the neck from the mouth. It lives in clear mountain streams and other temperate or alpine semi-aquatic situations. More aquatic than the two species above, the three-striped boxed will appreciate a pool area large enough for wading and maybe some swimming. They often prefer to eat earthworms, feeder fish, etc. in the water. A basking light should be provided and enough land area to walk around. This species is quite rare in the wild, but is being captive bred in the US and elsewhere. Other names: Three-banded box turtle, Three-lined box turtle, Chinese three-striped box turtle. Cuora trifasciata AKA: Three-striped box turtle Chinese three-striped box turtle Three-lined box turtle Three banded box turtle Golden Coin Turtle Class Reptilia, order Chelonia, family emydidae, subfamily batagurinae, genus Cuora, species trifasciata. There are currently no described subspecies. Range and natural habitat: The three-striped box turtle has a fairly small range through northern Vietnam several south China provinces and Hainan Island, China. It lives in clear mountain streams and other sub-tropical to temperate, aquatic situations. Cuora trifasciata is one of the most colorful Cuora species. The carapace is brown with three distinct black stripes. The two lateral stripes are shorter than the center stripe. Stripes are positioned on the blunt center keel and the shorter, smaller lateral keels. The plastron is almost entirely black except for a partial border of yellow. The underside of the marginal is pinkish-orange with some small dark blotches. The narrow and pointed head sports several colors. The top of the head is yellow, green or olive. There is a thick black stripe which extends back from the nose. It borders a yellow, green or olive oval spot on each side of the head. The slightly hooked upper jaw is yellow and a yellow stripe extends back from the mouth. The lower jaw is also yellow, but the underside of the neck is pink or orange. The limb sockets and underside of the limbs are also pinkish orange, while the upper sides of the limbs are brown, gray or olive green. The carapace is longer and flatter than many other Cuora species. Although the plastron is hinged, the posterior lobe is too small to provide protection for the hind limbs. There is a fairly large notch at the midline of the anal scutes. The male's plastron is only slightly concave, but the male generally has a longer, thicker tail with the cloaca beyond the carapace margin. Captive care: The three-striped box turtle is semi-aquatic. In the wild it is often seen in clear mountain streams. It enjoys wading and swimming, but also is known to walk about on land. A large vivarium with enough water for swimming should keep your turtle comfortable. It should offer a cool, shaded area and a warm area with a basking light. A full-spectrum light may have physical and psychological benefits for reptiles. Temperatures should range between 68 - 82 degrees F. This turtle will enjoy a large outdoor enclosure with a pond, if possible. It may be housed outdoors year round in subtropical areas. It can survive brief periods of fairly cold weather by becoming dormant. Breeding is more likely to be successful in a large outdoor environment, and occurs with the return of warm weather in the spring. Courtship and mating occur both in and out of the water, and males are quite aggressive. Diet is thought to be almost entirely carnivorous; however, they may also enjoy nibbling on some aquatic plants. They are fond of fish, worms, slugs, insects, crayfish, and baby mice. Occasional meals of canned dog or cat food are also acceptable for this carnivorous animal, and can provide a good medium for a vitamin supplement with calcium.

It is a special type of turtle originates China with a high value for medical and health purpose. The rapid rise of the middle class in Asian countries has meant a sudden explosion in demand for turtle that is being felt worldwide. As to its special characteristic, the feeding, growing and developing must be well maintained by a group of specialists in this field. A grown adult Three lined box turtle weighted about half kilogram.

The Farm will carry out series of experimental projects to evaluate the basis and known medical function. It will develops further to find out whether the characteristic could be use in curing particular illness.

EKSOTIKA CALLAGUR - KALIMANTAN

 

Eksotika Callagur dari Kalimantan. Dikalimantan, khususnya dikalimantan selatan sudah amat jarang ditemui, untuk alasan itulah kami mencoba menangkarkan kura kura yang cantik ini di Taman kami. Hanya sayangnya kami cukup sulit mencari indukan kura kura ini. Siapa mau bantu. Hubungi 0813-5160-1111